Hand Applique

Applique is a needlework technique to attach patches of fabric onto a background fabric to form the design or embellishment pattern. We can sew the patches of fabric in place by hand or machine. If you are using sewing machine, set your sewing machine to a desired stitch and test the stitch on the scrap of fabric before you start stitching. If you are sewing by hand, you must know at least some basic hand sewing stitches like running stitch, backstitch, blanket stitch and blind stitch.

Before you begin stitching, you may have to pin or adhere the appliques in place, some of the tools like bead-needle, fusible interfacing, and fabric glue are popular choices that used to attached the appliques to the background fabric. Anyway, some people might not use any tools to help them in guiding their works.

There is a variety of methods to do applique, the methods shown below are my favorite hand sew applique methods.

1. raw edge applique
2. finished edge applique
3. needle-turn applique ( turned edge applique)

Raw edge applique

This is the simplest way to sew on an applique. The raw edge of the applique fabric is left exposed. From the photo above, you can see the edge become frayed, don't you think the frayed edge bring you a natural look? Usually, I will use the backstitch in this method. Of course, you can use other stitches as long as you are satisfied with the outcome.  Apart from the cotton fabric, you can see many people like to use this method on a felt applique. The edge of the felt applique won't become frayed, it will bring you a different look and feeling.

Finished edge applique

In this method, you have to place two applique pattern pieces right side together and stitch completely around the edges. First, place two applique fabric pieces right side together and start preparing your applique pattern pieces by tracing around your prepared template onto the wrong side of the fabric. Then stitch completely around the edge and cut a hole in the middle on one side of the applique, then turn the the applique right side out. Now, pin or baste your finished edge applique on the background fabric and stitch it down with blind stitch. If your applique involve a convex curve shape, and the seam allowance is more than 0.5cm then you have to make a few small notches on the curve edge so the shape can lay flat when you turn it to the right side. The photo shown above is a semi-circle applique, although it has a convex curve shape, I don't make any notch on the convex curve edge because the seam allowance is narrow enough to create a flat surface.

If you are using fusible interfacing, trace the pattern ( mirror image) on the dull side of the fusible interfacing. Place the fusible side (shiny side) on the right side of your fabric and sew the fusible interfacing onto the right side of the fabric along the line you traced. Then, cut out the pattern piece, leaving a 0.5cm seam allowance. Notch the convex curve edge if necessary and cut a hole in the middle of the fusible interfacing. Turn the applique right side out, press your applique in a nice shape, place it on the background fabric and hold it in place using a warm iron. The fusible interfacing will bond with the background fabric. Now, you can easily stitch it down.

needle-turn applique ( turned edge applique)

This is a traditional method, what we have to do is to turn under the seam allowance with a needle before the applique is stitched to the background fabric. First, prepare your applique pattern piece by tracing around your prepared template onto the right side of the fabric. Cut out the pattern piece and leaving a 1cm seam allowance around the edge of the shape. Before you start sewing, make a few small notches on the convex curve edge ( only if your design involve a convex curve shape) and finger press around the stitching line that you have drawn onto the applique piece so you can easily turn the edge under when you are sewing it down. Usually, I will pin it in place and sew it down with blind stitch.

If you find it is not easy to turn under the edge and press the edge with your fingers, there is an alternative method that you can try out. Place your template (mirror image) on the wrong side of your applique fabric, fold the seam allowance up against the template and press with a warm iron. Remove the template when you have finished pressing. Then, you can place and hold your applique on the background fabric with pins, fabric glue or the basting stitch and stitch it down with blind stitch.

Applique Stitch

The applique stitch is a popular and easy stitch for sewing all applique designs or shapes. We use applique stitch to attach patches on the right side of the background fabric. It can be worked from right to left or left to right and it is always used in the turned edge (needle-turn) applique. It creates small vertical stitches on the edge. Usually, we use a matching or neutral color to sew the patches on and works with single-strand thread. Much of the time we want to make an invisible applique stitch, then we have to match the thread color to the applique piece and use a tiny applique stitch. Sometimes, we want the stitches to be noticed and stand out, then choose a contrasting color and sew around the edge using either a small or a large applique stitch.

1. Thread the needle and knot the thread end. Insert the needle through the edge of the applique from the wrong side.

2. Insert the needle into the background right next to where the needle came out of the applique and bring the needle up through the edge of the applique about 2mm (or 1/16") away from the first stitch. Pull the thread through, a vertical stitch is formed.

3. Again, insert the needle into the background right next to where the needle came out of the applique and bring the needle up through the edge of the applique about 2mm (or 1/16") away from the previous stitch. Pull the thread through and repeat the step.

4. The last photo shown is a few applique stitches that sewn on the edge of a round applique.

Split stitch

A split  stitch can be used for straight lines, curved lines and outlines. It is also used effectively as a solid filling stitch. You can get a smooth and solid filling stitch when it worked side by side in rows. As far as I know, there is another method of split stitch called two-color split stitch. As the name states, the stitch will be made in two colors.  Usually, I use six strands of embroidery floss to make split stitch as I can separate the stitch in half easily. Of course you can use less or more strands of floss to create a desired split stitch. Let me show you these two methods with six strands of embroidery floss below.



Split stitch

1. Make the first stitch by sending the needle up from the back and then sending it down one stitch length to the back.


2. Then, send the needle up through the middle of the previous stitch you just made.


3.&4. Send the needle back down again the same stitch length and repeat the steps.

 
5. End your last stitch by inserting the needle down to the fabric close to the last stitch.


6. A row of split stitches is done.





 Two-color split stitch

Thread the needle with two colors. Splitting the stitches with the above mentioned method but always keep one color above the needle and the other below.

If you wish to make a very fine line with two-color split stitch, you can thread the needle with two or four strands (even number) of embroidery floss so they split evenly while stitching.

Holbein stitch (double running stitch)

A Holbein stitch ( Double running stitch) is a reversible stitch. This stitch is made in two stages. First, going onward with a line of running stitches and then going backward to fill the spaces between the running stitches. It can be used for straight lines ,curved lines and outlines,  it is also used in blackwork embroidery.

A lot of embroiderers like to work the Holbein stitch on Aida fabric or even-weave linen. Since the Holbein stitch is a form of counted thread stitch, it will works out a very well result on Aida fabric or even-weave linen. Anyway it doesn't mean we cannot make it on other kinds of fabrics. If you are choosing another kind of fabric, you should transfer/draw grid marks on the fabric for an easy stitching especially for the complex patterns. Here show you the steps how I make the Holbein stitch on a piece of clothing fabric.

1. Work a line of running stitches, the stitches should be equal in length to the spaces between them.
2. Turn the work and start a return journey with the same working thread (or use a contrast coloured thread) stitch through exactly the same holes to fill the spaces between the running stitches.
3. The third photo shown is two lines of Holbein stitches with one color and two colors respectively. Usually, I will use a contrast colored thread on the return journey for creative effects.

Apart from creating straight lines by Holbein stitch, I have tried to create a simple Vs pattern with Holbein stitch. The photo below shows how I create the Vs pattern. I don't draw grid marks for this pattern because this is only a short and simple pattern, I only draw three lines on my clothing fabric. Anyway, you can draw a complete grid marks to get a good result.

1. Insert the needle at point A from the back and pull the thread through the fabric completely, then insert the needle into point B and come out at point C, pull the thread out to create the first stitch.
2. Now, create the second stitch by inserting the needle into point D and come out at point E. Pull the thread through completely.
3. Insert your needle into point F and come out at point G. Pull the thread through and now the third stitch is formed.
4. Follow the steps like what you have done just now to create the other horizontal running stitches. Finally, you can get a pattern as shown in the photo no.4.
5. Do a return journey by filling up all the spaces between the stitches with other contrast coloured thread. This time all the stitches should be vertical. The last photo shown is a finished Vs pattern.

French knot

French knot is a lovely knot. Sometimes, I use it for eyes, noses and flowers. I found that some of the embroiderers like to mass the knots together to form the flowers themselves. The photos below will show you how to make a French knot with a single thread.

1. Knot the end of your thread. Insert your needle up from the back of your fabric. 

2. Wrap the thread around your needle once or twice.

3. Still holding the thread, insert the needle back down into the fabric close to the original starting point. Keeping your thumb and forefinger over the thread as the thread is pulled through the fabric.

4. Slowly pull the thread through completely, so the twist lie neatly on the fabric surface.

5. A French not is formed.

There are several ways to create French knots in different appearances. Apart from the method above, I had tried the other methods to create a French knot with two different colored threads threaded together. Let me show you the results at the photos below.

• The first photo shown is the smallest French knot among the three. I made it by means of a single thread with two of different colored threads threaded together and wrapping the threads once around the needle. 
• The French knot shown in the second photo looks neater and tighter than the first one. I made it by means of a single thread with two of different colored threads threaded together and wrapping the threads twice around the needle. 
• The French knot shown in the third photo looks extraordinary compare to the other two. I made it by means of double threads with two of different colored threads threaded together and wrapping the threads twice around the needle.  

Each French knot shown above owns its uses and advantages to create crafts in different appearances. For a larger knot, I use a thicker thread. On the contrary, I use a thinner thread for a smaller knot.

Stem Stitch

Stem stitch also known as crewel stitch. The stem stitch is one of the most common embroidery stitches. I like stem stitch because it would create a smooth line on tighter curves. It often used to embroider the leaves and stems. For me, I always use it for outlines.


How I make a stem stitch

1. Make the first stitch by sending the needle up from the back and then sending it down one stitch length to the back.

2. Send the needle up again beside the middle of the previous stitch and close to the design line.

3. Again, send the needle down one stitch length to the back to form another stitch. Repeat step 2 and 3 until the end.

4. A row of stem stitches is completed.





There is another way to make a stem stitch. It can be done by inserting the needle up, then down and up again above the end of the previous stitch. This method is not only good for a broader line but it is also worked excellently for stuffed projects. I like to embroider the mouths or eyes of my sock dolls/animals by this way. Usually, I will use a thin thread to get it done. By referring to the photo below, I will show you the way I make a stem stitch for a design line with this alternative method.

Bring the needle up from the back, insert the needle down one stitch length to the back at point A and come out at point B. Pull the thread through and repeat to the end.

note:
1. You can angle the needle slightly so that it is inserted below the design line (point A) and come out above the end of the previous stitch (point B).

2. To create a smooth line on a tighter curve, take small stitches.

Chain stitch

Chain stitch is a sewing and embroidery technique. A series of looped stitches form a chain-like pattern. This is a decorative stitch, many beautiful projects have been carried out entirely using chain stitch. Usually, I use single thread to make chain stitches if I thought my desired pattern need a fine decorative outline or pattern. Instead,  I will use double thread to make a "bold-like" pattern.

1. Make a knot at the end of the thread. Insert the needle up through Point A from the back of the fabric and pull the thread through. Insert the needle at Point A again and bring it out through Point B. Don't push the needle out completely. Put the thread under the point of the needle to form a loop.

2.  Now, pull the thread out and tighten the loop. The first chain stitch is completed.

3.  To make the second stitch, insert the needle at Point B (inside the loop) and bring it out at Point C. Do the same as the first stitch, put the thread under the point of the needle, pull the thread out and tighten the loop.

4. A row of chain stitches is completed.

buttonhole stitch

A buttonhole stitch is used for sewing buttonholes and prevent fraying of the buttonhole. It can also be used as a firm edging stitch for cut-work. This stitch will form a small knot at the top of each stitch that gives a much sturdier stitch. It visually looks like the blanket stitch, but uses a different technique of sewing. Let me show you the way I do the buttonhole stitch now. Usually, I will use double thread for doing this stitch. If you use a thicker thread, then a single thread should be all right. This stitch can be done in any direction. Anyway, I will show you the way to get the buttonhole stitches done by working from left to right.

 1. Make a knot at one end if you use single thread. Insert the needle through Point A from the back of the fabric. Loop the thread clockwise. Then insert the needle at Point B and come out at Point C. The needle should be placed above the looped thread as shown in the photo.

2. Pull the thread out towards the top, this will create a knot at point B.

3. Now, make the second stitch by inserting the needle at Point D and come out at Point E. Repeat this step until a desired length.

4. A row of buttonhole stitches is completed.

note:
For buttonhole place the stitches close together with no fabric showing between them.

Catch stitch

Catch stitch is one of  the hemming stitches, it looks nearly invisible. This method helps to keep layers flat against another, such as a hem or seam allowances. It is worked from left to right or from the top to the bottom and forming a row of small "Xs" at the hem and the under section layer. If you wanted the stitches not being very visible on the right side, then using single thread will give a good result. Usually, I will sew catch stitches by holding the hem of the fabric and work from the top to the bottom.

1. Make a knot at one end of your thread. First, insert the needle from the backside of the hem and pull the thread through.

2. Move your needle downwards about 1/4" from the first insertion point and make a small stitch (pick up 3-5 threads) in the under section by inserting the needle upwards as shown in the photo.  

3. Pull the thread through, don't pull the thread too tightly.

4. Again, move your needle downwards about 1/4" from the previous insertion point and sew another small stitch in the hem by inserting the needle upwards as shown in the photo.

5. Repeat these steps until the end.

6. A row of catch stitches is completed.




Note :
You can vary the length of the stitch according to your taste.

blanket stitch

The blanket stitch is a popular decorative stitch for edges. It provides a nice edging for blankets, table cloths, bibs, appliqued items and other soft finishing. However, it can also be used as surface stitch for embroidery. You can vary the stitch depth and length according to your taste, making it very versatile and unique for your projects.

How I do the blanket stitch

Thread the needle and tie a knot at the end. Insert the needle through at A from the underside of the fabric.

Then, insert the needle at B, put the thread under the point of the needle and pull the thread through. This get the first stitch anchored.

To do the next stitch. Insert the needle at C and put the thread under the point of the needle as the previous step. Then pull the thread through. Repeat this step and continue to the end of the seam. Keeping the spaces and stitches even is very important, try to make them as even as possible.

When coming to the end, insert the needle at D to bring the thread back to the underside of the fabric and knot.

This is the pattern of the blanket stitch.

whip stitch

The whip stitch is used for seaming fabric either right or wrong sides together. Normally, I use it to join two finished edges or folded edges, attach crocheted pieces, sew up a stuffing opening and also use it as a decorative touch.

The whip stitch is  a visible stitch. It can be sewn with a contrasting thread instead of a matching thread. By this way, it would make more decorative for certain projects. It is ideal when joining together two layers of felt, as it not only holds the layers together, it also creates a decorative embroidery effect around the edges.

How I do the whip stitch

 

Before starting, make sure the pieces even. You can either to tack or pin them first.Tie a knot in the end of the thread, then insert the needle up through the bottom layer of fabric at a depth of 1/8" (about 3mm) from between the two layers. The knot should be sandwiched between the two pieces of fabric and will be invisible. Then pull the thread through. 

Next, insert the needle through both layers of fabric from the top layer by holding the needle a slight diagonal angle a little way along the first insertion point (the knot). You can draw a mark for the first insertion point to the top layer by referring to the knot inside the layers.

The first diagonal stitch is formed. Now, the thread should be wrapped around the edges.

Once again, insert the needle through the both layers of fabric from the top layer by holding the needle at a slight diagonal angle a little way along from the first stitch.

The second stitch is formed. Repeat this step and continue to the end of the seam. The stitches should be parallel. Try to keep the stitches and spaces as even as possible.

When you reach to the end of the seam and you wish to make your last stitch, put the needle through the top layer at a slight diagonal angle a little way along from the previous stitch as shown in the photo. Pull the thread through. Now, the thread is between the two layers.

On the inside of the two layers of fabric, put your needle under the last stitch.

Wrap the thread around the tip of your needle two or three times.

Pull the needle through to create a knot on the last stitch inside of the two layers.

A knot has created.

This is the pattern of whip stitch.

You can now pull the pieces apart to flatten the stitches. 

If you are not good enough in controlling the tightness of the thread as you go, you cann't flatten the pieces easily or get a good pattern. I suggest you try to flatten your pieces before you create the knot, and then adjust the stitches which are sewn too tightly. After doing that, then you can create a knot and cut off the thread.

NOT all the projects have to flatten the stitches, only do that when necessary. For example, sewing the opening of a pillow need not to flatten the stitches. Anyway, if you think it is really necessary to flatten it, of course you can do that.

There are two methods to make a knot at the end of the seam. For the project which you need to flatten the stitches, just follow the above mentioned steps. For the closed shape projects or any projects that need not flatten the stitches, you can put your needle under the last outside stitch and wrap the thread around the tip of the needle two or three times and then pull the thread through to create a knot. After you make your knot, insert the needle in through the seam and pull it out somewhere else on the piece. Tug on the thread a little to pull the knot through the seam to hide it.

backstitch (partial backstitch and full backstitch)

The backstitch is one of the basic stitches used in many of our projects. It is a very tight and secure hand stitch that produce a relatively strong seam. It is also one of the most commonly used stitch across all needle crafts. I always use it to sew fabric pieces together, to secure the thread at the beginning and the end of the stitching instead of a knot, to do decoration, and sometimes I use it for hemming.

This method can be worked in two ways, either a partial backstitch or a full backstitch. The partial backstitch looks like the simplest running stitch on the right side and the full backstitch looks like machine stitching.

How I sew a partial backstitch 

The amount of space between the partial backstitches on the right side may be vary, depending on the length of the stitch that brought backwards. Some might like to make a quarter-backstitch and some might like to make a half-backstitch. To me, I like to make a three-quarter-backstitch in order to get long stitches with a small space in between.

 Thread the needle and tie a knot at the end. Bring the needle up from the underside of the fabric. Pull the thread through.

After bringing the thread through at A, insert the needle at B and come out at C.

This is the first stitch.

 Reinsert the needle back just in front of the first stitch (or any point in the space) and run the needle through as the previous step. Try to keep the distance same as the length of the previous stitch as possible as you can.

 Pull the thread through, and now you can see the two stitches standing very near.

Repeat these steps, continue to the end of the seam. Then you can see the outcome as the picture shown above.

How I sew a full backstitch 

The steps of making the full backstitch almost the same as you make the partial backstitch. The only difference is there is no space between stitches in a full backstitched line, so you have to send the needle back down through the fabric exactly at the end of the previous stitch when you make a full backstitch. Then, send the needle up through the fabric a stitch away from the previous stitch.

Send the needle back down through the fabric exactly at the end of the previous stitch. Then, bring the needle up at left of central point (where the yellow thread came out). The distance on the right and left of the central point should be equal. Repeat the steps and keeping stitch length constant.

A line of full backstitches will looks like this.

running stitch

A running stitch is one of the most simple and easy hand stitch. The stitch is worked by passing the tip of the needle in and out of the fabric to form many small and even stitches on the needle before pulling the thread through. It is good for gathering fabric, tucking hems or sewing seams which require little strength.

How I do the running stitch

Thread the needle and tie a knot at the end. Insert the needle from the underside of the fabric and pull the thread through.

Now, start passing the tip of the needle in and out of the fabric by leaving a space from the starting point. Keeping the stitches and spaces as even as possible.

Pull the needle through, then you can see the outcome as the picture shown above. Repeat this step till the end of the seam. See, how easy this stitch is!

slip stitch / blind stitch

A slip stitch / blind stitch is a common and excellent hem stitch. It is used when you don't want visible stitches. We use slip stitch / blind stitch for fastening two pieces of fabric together from the right side without the thread showing. Usually, I use it for closing an opening of a pillow, attaching the body and the parts of a sock doll, sewing a seam from the outside of a garment, and other soft finishing.

How I do the slip stitch / blind stitch

Thread the needle and tie a knot at the end. Insert your needle from the fold.

Pull the thread through so the knot is hidden in the fold.

Insert the needle into the opposite layer directly across from where the needle just came out. Insert the needle and run the needle through about 1/4" from the insertion point.

Pull the thread through to bring the fold and the layer closer together.

Reinsert the needle directly across from where the needle just came up out of the fabric. Run the needle through the fold again another 1/4" or so and come up.

Pull the thread through to bring the fold and the layer closer together.

Repeat these steps, you will see the outcome as shown in the picture.